This may sound like something from Capt. Obvious for many of you (I learned the hard way
*) but as you add farkles of electrical nature be sure to use the inline blade type fuses (ATO?) and not the in line glass type or tube type (BUSS?) with the spring inside. The glass type will eventually have a connection issue after many 10s of thousands of miles of vibration....The panel type glass fuse holder might be OK but the inline type will eventually let you down.
* I had an inline 30 amp glass fuse supplying power to my Fuzeblock which powered a bunch of stuff I've got hooked up. It all died on my last day coming back from the COG Devil's Cut Rally. During my troubleshooting at home I noticed the supply voltage to the Fuzeblock was around 3 volts. The fuse holder was the culprit and when replaced restored the full 12+ volts to the fuseblock. It was a long afternoon and early evening ride without my cruise control. (I'm spoiled, I know)
*) but as you add farkles of electrical nature be sure to use the inline blade type fuses (ATO?) and not the in line glass type or tube type (BUSS?) with the spring inside. The glass type will eventually have a connection issue after many 10s of thousands of miles of vibration....The panel type glass fuse holder might be OK but the inline type will eventually let you down.* I had an inline 30 amp glass fuse supplying power to my Fuzeblock which powered a bunch of stuff I've got hooked up. It all died on my last day coming back from the COG Devil's Cut Rally. During my troubleshooting at home I noticed the supply voltage to the Fuzeblock was around 3 volts. The fuse holder was the culprit and when replaced restored the full 12+ volts to the fuseblock. It was a long afternoon and early evening ride without my cruise control. (I'm spoiled, I know
)
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