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The Wiring Harness - Write Up 101

bladesjax5296

bladesjax5296

BladesJAX
Member
Im going to write this up in the HOPE someone DOESN'T EVER EVER EVER have to go through this but if they do - I've found a way!

Lemme start this off with a slightly humorous anecdote. I've had a NUMBER of bikes, Everything from BMW's to Ducati's to my Hondas....Kawasaki DEFINATELY gets the "What was I thinking" award for the year! And I'd LOVE to throat punch the engineer who sat behind a desk with a fancy pen and a cad drawing pad and decided to stuff the wiring harness in the absolutely worst spot humanly possible to get to when you have to change it...That dude definitely needs a kick to the goonch!!

Anyway -
First is first, Take off all your tupperware, The gas Tank, Seat, Mid and low farings...Crash Guards if you've got those too...They gotta come out.
Pull the radiator, Exhaust system (complete) and remove the fancy engine mounts on the upper left and right bolted to the airbox. They have to come out too...Sorry.

THEN - Remove the two LONG 8mm bolts that go through the frame on the right side of the bike. On the left there is a 17mm nut that has to be removed as well for the middle long bolt. Remove that...Then Tap out BOTH long bolts.

Here's where it gets creative - The Service Manual says you have to remove the engine to get the harness out and back in...I call Kafka!!! YOU DO NOT have to remove it!!!

With all the mounting points removed, make sure you have a jack under the block to keep it up and let it down just a weeeeeeee bit...THAT my friends will give you enough clearance to shove that dirty wiring harness plug by plug starting with the headlight and city light connectors through that little gap between the frame and the engine and you'll be done!

I VOW to run this bike as the KISS principal...Keep it simple stupid!!!
once you've done that, you'll be ready to rock and roll!!
Nate
 
Where is your progress? Are you still looking for someone with KDS? Thought about something, if you can find a Euro motorcycle dealer or just an independent shop that Uses our TEXA diagnostic software, and if they do not have the Kawasaki cabals, can help you out and ship you the Navigator TXT hook-up.

Our TEXA is light years ahead of the OEM KDS diagnostic software running on Windows Seven platform - besides using that is the equivalent of masturbating with a cheese grater!!

It surpasses Diagnostics of every OEM, yes it can do Kipass ( So old by the way 90s Mitsubishi Fuso ) Yes- TPMS can read and reprogram held next to the tire, Reset ECU, Update Firmware for the ABS, Traction control KIPASS we store all the latest files, Data log, sensor and VVT Diagnostics, be able to make small fueling adjustments and Idle, Bleed ABS.

The Full TEXA Software package is over 100 or more brands of Powersport equipment.

TEXA is the OEM supplier of rebranded Diagnostic software for 95 percent of the Powersports industry, unfortunately its cost prohibitive for the home mechanic comes in around 4,800 dollars.

www.texausa.com

All the tools you need for the BIKE environment - TEXA S.p.A.

TEXA's NAVIGATOR TXBs is the ideal choice for the BIKE environment (bikes, quads, jetskis, snowmobiles, ATVs).
www.texausa.com www.texausa.com

Good news is we are soon releasing Brand specific for North America handheld Diagnostic tablets for under $700 through our dealers.

Once all the EPA, CARB testing is completed and approved.

Kawasaki, Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, some Chinese bikes.

Harley Davidson, Indian, Victory

BMW, KTM

Aprilia Moto Guzzi Vespa
 
Glad you got it done, and thanks for documenting the steps. Definitely something I hope to never have to do.
 
bladesjax5296 said:
Im going to write this up in the HOPE someone DOESN'T EVER EVER EVER have to go through this but if they do - I've found a way!

Lemme start this off with a slightly humorous anecdote. I've had a NUMBER of bikes, Everything from BMW's to Ducati's to my Hondas....Kawasaki DEFINATELY gets the "What was I thinking" award for the year! And I'd LOVE to throat punch the engineer who sat behind a desk with a fancy pen and a cad drawing pad and decided to stuff the wiring harness in the absolutely worst spot humanly possible to get to when you have to change it...That dude definitely needs a kick to the goonch!!

Anyway -
First is first, Take off all your tupperware, The gas Tank, Seat, Mid and low farings...Crash Guards if you've got those too...They gotta come out.
Pull the radiator, Exhaust system (complete) and remove the fancy engine mounts on the upper left and right bolted to the airbox. They have to come out too...Sorry.

THEN - Remove the two LONG 8mm bolts that go through the frame on the right side of the bike. On the left there is a 17mm nut that has to be removed as well for the middle long bolt. Remove that...Then Tap out BOTH long bolts.

Here's where it gets creative - The Service Manual says you have to remove the engine to get the harness out and back in...I call Kafka!!! YOU DO NOT have to remove it!!!

With all the mounting points removed, make sure you have a jack under the block to keep it up and let it down just a weeeeeeee bit...THAT my friends will give you enough clearance to shove that dirty wiring harness plug by plug starting with the headlight and city light connectors through that little gap between the frame and the engine and you'll be done!

I VOW to run this bike as the KISS principal...Keep it simple stupid!!!
once you've done that, you'll be ready to rock and roll!!
Nate
Click to expand...

Thanks for the post Nate. I know a few who have had to replace the wiring because of mouse damage. Very pricey to get it done.
 
ron203 said:
Looks like the basis of a good tech piece for the Concourier. Thx!
Click to expand...
Be happy to have it in the magazine that would be pretty cool!! You’re welcome to post my email address for anyone who needs help with it too as I’ve got a method and it works quite well! I would be happy to get you some direct pictures of the bike now as well if that is an option!
Nate
 

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bladesjax5296 said:
Be happy to have it in the magazine that would be pretty cool!! You’re welcome to post my email address for anyone who needs help with it too as I’ve got a method and it works quite well! I would be happy to get you some direct pictures of the bike now as well if that is an option!
Nate
Click to expand...

Cool and thanks. Maybe you’ll hear from Ashley.
 
question: Does the engine have to be let down just to get clearance for the plug connectors to get through?...that is... if one doesn't mind connecting color coded wires back to the connectors on the other side, do you think a small wire snake could get through the opening to grab and pull the wires through if there were no connectors attached to the ends?
 
fartymarty said:
question: Does the engine have to be let down just to get clearance for the plug connectors to get through?...that is... if one doesn't mind connecting color coded wires back to the connectors on the other side, do you think a small wire snake could get through the opening to grab and pull the wires through if there were no connectors attached to the ends?
Click to expand...
I did let it down but failed to drop it all the way. I fed it through from the back forward connector by connector…there’s just enough space to slide it through if done right…
Nate
 
bladesjax5296 said:
I did let it down but failed to drop it all the way. I fed it through from the back forward connector by connector…there’s just enough space to slide it through if done right…
Nate
fartymarty said:
question: Does the engine have to be let down just to get clearance for the plug connectors to get through?...that is... if one doesn't mind connecting color coded wires back to the connectors on the other side, do you think a small wire snake could get through the opening to grab and pull the wires through if there were no connectors attached to the ends?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Let me clarify a little more. I didn’t snip any ends or anything like that. I literally “found the gap” which is just big enough on the left side about 1.5” in from the frame side to stuff the entire harness through the space and out the other side. I was able to grab the connectors by hand and pull them through. It’s a pain in the ass but it can be done and my bike running is proof!
 
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